We chose a calmer pace for sightseeing on our last day on Jeju and took our time arriving at the famous Seopjikoji Lighthouse, the location of a signal fire beacon that was maintained during the Joseon period. The stark appearance of the volcanic rocks of the coastline were softened by nearby fields of wildflowers. And old church turned into a sort of gingerbread Christmas village (scary dream), added a slightly surreal element to the area.

The lighthouse at the top of the hill is a popular spot for romantic photos as it is also a popular spot for romantic Kdrama scenes. We considered climbing the steps to the top to see if we felt the romance but ended up walking along the cliffs, taking lots of pictures, and making friends with a wandering donkey.

Our next destination was the treat of the day! Out in the middle of nowhere, at a tiny little home restaurant called Sungsan Talrae, we stopped for lunch. The owner was so gracious and brought us a monster board of grilled fresh fish, some her husband had just caught that morning, and lots of side dishes and soup. We ate and ate. Then she insisted on giving us the sweet potatoes she’d brought for her lunch, and we gobbled those up too. By the time we were done eating, the fish board looked like a war zone, and we were stuffed like Thanksgiving turkeys and feeling dreamy.

 To wake ourselves up, we shopped at some small local mom and pop businesses nearby and found all kinds of suitcase friendly goodies to bring home. Later we took a stroll along the water’s edge to a coffee shop called Cafe Gongjakso in Gujwa, not too far from the Jeju Haenyeo Museum, and sat for a bit to enjoy the ocean and the charming scenery.

As the evening drew down on our last night on Jeju, we chose to relax with hot Korean style pizza and episodes of a fabulous series about celebrities busking their way across Europe. I even started on a new Kdrama (without any subtitles)  that I finished watching after I was back home in the US.

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